Secret histories of cities and spirits

Nothing focuses the mind quite like a deadline and deadlines don't care about royal weddings or bank holidays. On top of that, they can be sneaky little buggers and so it turns out that the entry deadline for Bols Genever's Classic Cocktail competition passes on 1st May (UK only, I think) and while I've dabbled with the spirit in the past, I wanted to put new together.

In this case, "new" is a relative term. After all, they called it the Bols Genever Classic Cocktail Competition, so classic gin and genever based drinks were on my mind. I've just invested in a bottle of Campari so Negronis were never far from my thoughts and the New York thing led me to look at the Bronx.

I should probably explain the New York thing.

Famously, New York hasn't always been New York. The town that would become the city that never sleeps was first established by Dutch settlers under the name New Amsterdam at a time when a large number of the ships exploring the possibilities of the New World were flying the flag of the Netherlands. The name changed when the colony of New Netherland - of which New Amsterdam was the capital - was provisionally ceded to the British in 1664, and finally stuck ten years later.

Oh, this is fun. This is the good old days of throwing together random thoughts and providing a tenuous link back to booze.

There's a thematic link here to genever because genever is the New Amsterdam to gin's New York; everyone knows the latter, everyone loves the latter but you don't get to the latter unless you go through the former. No New Amsterdam, no New York. No genever, no gin.

And that's why I was thinking about the Bronx cocktail. But I couldn't let go of that Campari element - after all, if we're thinking about what happens if you give up what turns out to be one of the greatest cities on Earth, there's likely to be some bitterness.

The Stuyvesant

35ml Bols Genever
20ml Campari
25ml freshly squeezed orange juice
25ml freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 barspoons acacia honey (might need less/more depending on the acidity of your lemons and oranges)
10ml egg white

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker and shake without ice to emulsify. Add ice and shake; fine-strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

Garnish with a twist of orange zest.

(Named for Petrus Stuyvesant, the last Director-General of the colony of New Netherland.)

Mezcal's global village

"You have to remember," says Ron Cooper, "in 1995, there were three liquor companies on the Internet." It goes some way to explaining why he gives his web address as mezcal.com. But we're not here to talk about registering domains in the pre-Bubble era. Ron's been importing a range of single village mezcals since 1995 and they're starting to pop up in the UK. The Del Maguey range now includes eight mezcals, each made in a distinctive, traditional way by the local palenqueros. After a good dozen years of growing, agave - or maguey, as they're known in Oaxaca - plants are harvested and stripped of their leaves. The pinas (hearts) are then roasted in a conical pit over three to five days. Fermentation is left to wild yeasts before the distillation process that varies from village to village. The mezcal made in Chichicapa is run twice through a copper pot still, while in Santa Catarina Minas, the Minero comes out of a clay pot still. It's not only the type of still that changes - Del Maguey's Pechuga is distilled with almonds, fruit and a whole chicken in the still.

Watch What  creates  flavors  in  Mezcal in Lifestyle |  View More Free Videos Online at Veoh.com

Not all of the range is as unconventional as the Pechuga. The latest addition is Del Maguey Vida. It's based on San Luis del Rio, one of Del Maguey's first single village mezcals, but it's distilled to a slightly friendlier 42%ABV - all of the Del Maguey mezcals are distilled at proof rather than being diluted to bottling strength - and they cut the distillate nearer the tails than the heads. It's reckoned to be a great mezcal for cocktails, which led to some great drinks from some of Edinburgh's best bartenders.

There was a rare bottle of Del Maguey Chichicapa from the first batch imported the US back in the 90s, and aged for 94 days in a Californian wine barrel up for grabs and in the end, it went to Jamie McDonald from the Raconteur for his twist on a Blue Blazer. Second place went to the West Room's Andrew Kearns with a straight-up sour with sage and rhubarb jam while third place was shared between Tonic's Tom Hodgkiss and, uh, me.

Todo Bien Tambien

50ml Del Maguey Vida
15ml Campari
1 barspoon agave nectar
8 mint leaves
the zest of one lemon, in thin strips

Combine the agave nectar, mint and lemon zest strips in the base of a glass with some crushed ice. Fill with crushed ice and add the Campari and mezcal. Mix well with a barspoon. Garnish with a mint sprig wrapped in a lemon zest twist.

*** 

There's often a lot of talk about filtration and purity and technology when it comes to discussing spirits, so it's refreshing to come across a series of products that are so focused on traditional methods of production. There's a tangible difference between the various liquids and it all comes from the particular ways that the palenqueros turn two things - maguey and water - into mezcal. There's a reward for this approach, too - Del Maguey Tobala (made from wild maguey plants; it takes a month to collect enough) was named as a semifinalist in the Tequila, Mezcal & Agave-based category at the 2010 Ultimate Spirits Challenge in New York.

Twenty Three: Reina Amargo

We are on the edge of a great moment in British history. We are in sight of the point at which the great British public see tequila as something other than a shot or a frozen margarita. My friends, the road to that point will be long and hard, but with courage, strength and resolve, we can make this dream our new reality.

Reina Amargo

50ml José Cuervo Tradicional
25ml lime juice
1 barspoon Campari
2 barspoons honey

Shake all ingredients with ice and fine-strain into chilled martini glass.